Rabbit Breeders

Discussion in 'Breeding, Raising, Feeding and Caring for Animals' started by Lloyd, Jun 17, 2014.

  1. Lloyd

    Lloyd New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2014
    Messages:
    1
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this message but does anyone know where to find a New Zealand White Rabbit breeder and/or a Californian Rabbit breeder within 2 hours of Maitland, NSW, Australia. I have already looked on all the buy/sell websites I can find. I don't mind if it is over 2 hours from Maitland if its to a reputable breeder or a commercial rabbit farm. I will be starting a small Meat Rabbitry soon and need only the rabbit supplier.
     
  2. floot

    floot Junior Member

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2010
    Messages:
    99
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    0
    home rabbits

    Hi there,

    NSW is just about 'rabbit central' for both commercial and domestic breeders in Australia, both have listed associations. I would recommend you start at the DPI NSW website.

    I am guessing you are new to this. Whilst I had no real success where I live now due to climactic conditions I have raised eating rabbits successfully when I was a kid and living temperate. Rabbits in the Far North of Oz are difficult to manage with small litters at best and a real problem with male fertility due to heat stress. It became a very seasonal enterprise. So without forking out wads of cash for air conditioning, snake repellent etc etc I had to chalk up rabbits as a fail for my region, not impossible just very unpractical.

    If you are new I will make a few points in no particular order.

    Hutches and caging: Rabbits are incredibly strong and destructive, what might look good at the pet store may be impractical over the longer term. Imagine putting a rhino in a pig pen, I am trying to make the point that the size and strength of a 4-5kg commercial rabbit is way more than a 1-1.5kg domestic rabbit. This also applies to utensils, bowls, feeders and things.

    Water: Rabbits have the highest requirements for clean fresh water of any animal I have managed, they are up there with trout. Plenty of clean fresh water is a must for all restrained animals but it is a necessity for rabbits. So beware of jars and little bottles and bowls. Rabbits consume a lot of water, especially on dry feed.

    Food: Learn about rabbit nutrition. One size can fit all but it will help your success if you understand the differing needs of bucks, dry does, gestating and lactating does and weaned grower bunnies. Not trying to complicate things but fat bucks don't mate that well and fat does seem to have reduced litters besides it's a waste of food.

    Teeth, toys and boredom: I do put these in together. I mentioned earlier about destructive rabbit behaviour. Rabbits teeth are continually growing. Rabbits confined can get very bored and lethargic. Rabbits like to play. There are two ways you can overcome this. Firstly, by continually breeding and producing them like commercial growers do. Secondly you can try putting something in their cage for them to play with,s small stainless steel bowls work. Being a permie I had another solution. I used to poke prunings through the top of the cage. Most fruit trees, rain trees [albizia], moringa, the occasional eucalypt and bamboo. Vegie waste placed on top of the cage and long cut grass. Rabbits can be poisoned so know your plants and learn locally. This was probably done a couple of times a week with a variety of products, the best being sugar cane, which I appreciate wont be available in your area.

    Medication: Rabbits are very hardy but calici virus could wipe you out in 48 hours. Find out how local rabbit breeders deal with this. Ask the DPI they help amateurs too. Quickly isolate a sick rabbit. My vet has happily done 3 autopsies for me on 3 species of animal with no charge. Just freeze the animal and drop it in.

    Security: Make sure your rabbits do not suffer from stress caused by cats, quolls, crows or pythons etc from sitting on their cage all night. Keep them safe and sound. The family dog and kids will probably not stress them after an initial settling in period.

    Names: My kids knew they couldn't name or attach to a particular baby bunny or there would be no more babies and they had 10 years of rabbit care staring at them. It is vital for food production to turn your stock over.

    NO JOKE: Recently I flew down from the NT to attend a southern cold Victorian funeral. An old friend has worked at a poultry processing plant for over 20 years and he said to me that they were now 'piecing' wild rabbits which they were paying $19 per kilo WHOLESALE. Your homefed bunnies should have most of the eating qualities of a wild rabbit.

    Hope this belated post is of any assistance.

    Cheers,

    Mike
     

Share This Page

-->