1. cottager

    cottager Junior Member

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    From here: aussieslivingsimply.com.au/forum/fruit-vines-nuts-and-sprouts/107886-ice-cream-bean

    Came this quote (bushy):
    Given it's strong growth in semi-tropical to tropical area's ... and you being on the sunshine coast ... I'd say a tentative yes (is it weed-declared where you are?).
     
  2. andrew curr

    andrew curr Moderator

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    we live in a tough area to grow eucs (home of new england dieback)

    try E blaklei E viminalus E conica
    where are you raymondo??? most acacias need shelter for the first year or so here.
     
  3. andrew curr

    andrew curr Moderator

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    what is hazel ??? is that the nut??/
    how long do hazel hurdles last
     
  4. Pakanohida

    Pakanohida Junior Member

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    What tree is that? It's not a hazelnut / filbert tree is it?
     
  5. eco4560

    eco4560 New Member

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    I don't think it is weed declared... If it is then I have 2 weeds in my garden! One is just a seedling still, but the other is now a year old and about 6 foot tall. I have been tip pruning it, but haven't been brave enough to pollard it...
     
  6. Pakanohida

    Pakanohida Junior Member

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    I looked up a few things regarding hazels and the hurdle. It is a hazelnut / filbert relative that is coppiced. Best thing I saw was this rose arch made from Hazel.

    https://youtu.be/zklfT88b7Vg


    A scientific name for variety would be exceedingly helpful.
     
  7. sweetpea

    sweetpea Junior Member

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    Of course, isn't the point of coppicing to use the stuff you are cutting off? to compost it or use it for mulch or hugelkultur? It's how that stuff breaks down that counts, and how we can use it, how long it takes to use it. Woody clippings in the compost could take more than a year to break down until they are unrecognizable. In cutting down fruit trees, there is the root stock graft to consider, and how much of the tree you need to save needs to be above that graft, it's not really about how close to the ground in that case. And lots are aleopathic, particularly redwood. I really hope we are not encouraging anyone to cut down majestic sequoias and redwoods :)
     
  8. andrew curr

    andrew curr Moderator

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    i dont want my hurdels to break down too quickley

    we should remember to achieve a yield
    i saw some beaut redwoods that needed thinning in the ottway ranges the other;) day
     
  9. mischief

    mischief Senior Member

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    NO,No,No.
    Coppicing is cutting trees and shrubs that Will and Do grow back so you can use and continue to use the timber of various thicknesses in a number of different ways.
    My original reason for looking at this was to see if we could grow trees along our boundary line to act as wind breaks and when they are old enough to cut back to use to either defray our firewood costs or as garden stakes -I have alot of trouble with rickety stakes.

    The trick is to find what will coppice, what will grow well in a given climate and what type of plant will be best for a given end use.
     
  10. sweetpea

    sweetpea Junior Member

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    I think I just found the best thing to coppice -- chard!! It goes and goes, one of mine is 3 years old, just cut it off a bit above the soil line :)
     
  11. sweetpea

    sweetpea Junior Member

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    Micshief, oh, windbreak! Drought tolerant? Easy to live with? Elaeagnus! It's invincible, drought tolerant, disease tolerant. The old growth has thorns, but I never get that far. I get lots of clippings off of it for composting. It's evergreen. I have one called silverberry. It can get (3.5 meters) 10 feet if you let it, but I keep it easily at 2 meters. :)
     
  12. mischief

    mischief Senior Member

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    Hi Charlie,
    your comment made me remember this....

    A friend of mine had just visited someone who had all these exotic plants growing in her garden- things we just cant get into the country.
    The secret to this garden was that this person often holidays overseas in Asia and when she finds a fruit etc... she likes, she eats shit loads of them the morning before her flight then follows up with lots of white bread which makes her constipated.
    When she gets home she collects her poo and gets the seeds out which then get sown and planted in her garden.
    sneaky and perfectly legal,haha.


    but not coppicing.

    @Sweetpea,
    I'll check that one out-not too keen on the thorns bit tho,I have enough trouble with mums fav roses that are still in 'her' garden under the apple tree which have to come out next year.

    Most fruit trees will coppice and the wood does scent the room when it burns in an open fire, not too good for tomato stakes as I discovered.
     
  13. sweetpea

    sweetpea Junior Member

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    mischief, I know the thorns sound creepy, but the only time I've come in contact with them is if I've let the hedge go crazy and I had to back if off by 3.5 meters. But they're not like rose thorns, they are the occasional spike along the woody stem. If animals are involved, they won't try to push through it.

    Another possibility is the bottle brush tree if you have a mild winter. Spring and summer it is covered with red "bottle brush" flowers that the bees love, so it's good for them. It can be cut back unmercifully and it will spring forth again. It has woody cuttings, and so the composting of it would need some extra nitrogen. But the leaves it drops all year are good for its own mulch and for composting.
     
  14. andrew curr

    andrew curr Moderator

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    hey mischief
    your friend is always welcome to visit
    more should be made of this topic
     
  15. Grahame

    Grahame Senior Member

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    So what I'm trying to figure out is how many trees for firewood to plant...

    I'm working off the assumption of needing something like 5m3 of wood each year. I'm thinking of coppicing some Euc's such as sugar gum and yellow box (they both grow well here) as well as plenty of acacias. I find the acacias are great firewood.

    But, I'm not sure how to go about calculating how many of each. Anyone know of any info on how much wood per year a give species might grow given a certain amount of rain/water?
     
  16. Grahame

    Grahame Senior Member

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    I found this one on willows in England
     
  17. andrew curr

    andrew curr Moderator

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    sugar gum(classical western district firewoodlot),melliodara are good
    oaks are good to split Rowen Ried talks about measuring basal stem area
    shipmast locust will/may out yield them in a coppice
     
  18. matto

    matto Junior Member

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    G'day Grahame,

    Is it worth looking into going and see what you can find in the state forests?

    Not too hard to find a trailer load from dead wood and slash piles, around here anyway..

    DPI Victoria reckon in low-rainfall areas, (
     
  19. matto

    matto Junior Member

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    Be great to look into energy efficient designs for wood heaters and the like. Seems to go hand-in-hand with promoting biomass production!
     
  20. ecodharmamark

    ecodharmamark Junior Member

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    I suspect matto is referring to Ironbarks when she writes of 'ironwoods', Mr G (please correct me if I'm wrong, matto). In our part of the world, it's Red Ironbark, or Mugga (one of the very first Aboriginal terms picked up by Cook and Co). Their nomenclature are Eucalyptus sideroxylon and E. tricarpa (the latter endemic to the western and central Box-Ironbark forests and closer to me, the former endemic to the eastern Box-Ironbark forest and up into NSW, and closer to you). Both coppice reasonably well, and both are excellent sources of firewood, burning even hotter than my favourite Euc, E. cladocalyx (Sugargum). However, if I had to chose between the two, it would be Sugargums that I would grow - slightly faster growth rates, tolerate droughts better (due to their endemic qualities), coppice slightly better (callus faster), and with their smooth bark, they are easier to de-bark (for post and rails, etc). I do love my Eucs!
     

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