Energy Systems

A Solar Powered Life, Part VII: To Invert or Not to Invert

When I selected the various components for my home solar power system, I always had to keep in the back of my mind the words of my wife. “It must be able to run the hair dryer and the coffee machine”. Wanting to ensure that my wife was happy and given these two appliances are usually designed to be plugged into a 240v AC mains electricity socket, I had to make a decision on how to get the 24v DC solar power that was stored in the batteries into the house and useable for these appliances.

Fortunately some very clever people have developed a device called an inverter. An inverter takes the extra low voltage power (in my case 24v DC) stored in a battery (or other extra low voltage power source) and converts it to the usual mains voltage. (In Australia that’s 240v AC.) Because the output of the inverter is the normal mains voltage, you can plug in readily available appliances and run them using the energy stored by the solar power system in the batteries. Cool, the coffee machine and hair dryer were now taken care of and there were smiles all around.

Sometimes, things are so commonplace that you don’t question them. Most houses in Australia are wired up for 240v AC mains electricity (other countries run different mains voltages). However, one question that is rarely asked is, do you need to wire up that house for 240v AC mains wiring? The answer is no, and you cannot be forced to do so. Although the crucial issue is that most readily available appliances are powered through the use of mains electricity.

So why would you not install 240v mains wiring in a house?

I didn’t really want to have to pay for an electrician to either install the solar power system or the wiring in the house. Especially, since I had the knowledge to wire up the solar power system and the 240v mains wiring myself. However, in Australia, this knowledge alone does not provide the legal right to undertake this work. Because I chose to have an inverter and run 240v mains wiring around the house, I was legally forced to employ an electrician. In Australia, any mains wiring must be installed by a licensed electrician, who will issue you with a certificate of electrical safety upon completion of the work. My compromise was that I installed the extra low voltage solar power components and the electrician installed the mains wiring. Had I chosen to not have an inverter and utilised only 24v I would have been able to undertake the entire installation myself.

Is it legal to wire up your own extra low voltage solar power system in a house?

In Australia, as long as the solar power system does not exceed 50v AC or 120v DC it is considered extra low voltage and as long as you comply with the extensive requirements in the Australian Standard (AS4509 Standalone power systems) and you have reasonable competency, then you’re OK. Extra low voltage wiring is still potentially dangerous from a fire and/or electrocution point of view, but not to the same extent that 240v mains wiring is.

Why would you DIY the installation of your standalone power system?

The other reason I installed and wired up the solar power system, was that although the government was offering rebates for the installation of solar power systems in remote areas, (without taking into account my labour) it was actually cheaper to source the components and install them myself. The installation took around 5 days of my time and the components cost about 60% of the quote that I received from a reputable supplier.

What is the motivation for having any mains wiring?

Why would you install any mains wiring at all? It all gets down to appliance availability. I had located an extra low voltage hair dryer, lighting would have been easy, even a laptop or LCD television can be sourced, but it was the coffee machine that was the real stumbling block. Thinking about my wife and coffee (and my own future happiness), I had to factor in an inverter and in my situation this meant installing mains 240v AC wiring.

However, if it was an emergency set up, or a cabin, shed or holiday home, I wouldn’t bother with mains wiring (which I’ll discuss in the next article in the series).

Types of Inverters

There are different types of inverters which perform different functions and they cannot be swapped.

a) Grid Tie Inverters

This is what you use when you connect up solar panels to the electricity grid without using batteries. They’re pretty clever because they convert the output from the solar panels directly into that of mains electricity. In addition to this, they synchronise that output with the electricity grid and sense whether the grid is still active. Once the electricity grid has failed for any reason, the inverter will immediately stop functioning. The reason it stops functioning is to protect linesman who may be working somewhere in the electricity distribution system and will most likely be electrocuted by the unexpected output from the inverter.

With a grid tie inverter, once the solar panels no longer produce any energy, or the householder uses more energy than the solar panels are producing, excess power is drawn from the electricity grid.

b) Standalone power system Inverters

All other inverters are designed to connect up to batteries. These convert the energy stored in batteries to mains electricity. These types of inverters vary significantly in quality, output and efficiency. As a general rule though, the more you pay for an inverter, the better quality, more efficient and the higher output that inverter will have.

Quality

Inverters vary widely in the quality of the mains electricity they produce.

The lowest quality (and therefore cheapest) inverters are square wave inverters. People living in rural areas describe this output as dirty power. Without getting into technical details, this output is good for power tools etc, but can damage other complex and sensitive electrical devices. Also be aware that these can also be sold under the description of modified sine wave inverters.

The highest quality (and therefore more expensive) inverters are the pure sine wave inverters. These mimic the delivery of mains electricity. The quality of the electricity delivered by a good pure sine wave inverter can actually be a whole lot better than the electricity grid itself, which is subject to all sorts of fluctuations and is rarely that stable.

Output

Inverters specify output with 2 measures: Continuous and Peak.

When I think about a small fan heater, I remember that they usually use around 2.4kWh of energy. It’s a pretty scary amount of energy really, especially when you look back at part three of A Solar Powered Life and you remember how little energy my system generates in a day. However, if you wanted to power this fan heater from a standalone solar power system, you’d have to have an inverter that supplies (continuously) an output of at least 2.4kWh (ie. 2,400 watts).

Continuous is the amount of energy that the inverter can supply continuously all day, every day.

Peak output can be many times this continuous number (ie. It could be as high as 9,000 watts), but the inverter can only supply this amount of energy for a very short period (maybe 5 minutes) before over-heating and shutting down.

To put the fan heater into perspective, my system can supply 3,000 watts continuously. This means that if I ran a fan heater, I would only have another 600 watts to provide for all my other household needs.

Efficiency

What is meant by efficiency? If you look at inverters on ebay, they’ll all provide an efficiency percentage figure. This figure indicates the percentage of stored battery energy which is converted into mains electrical output. With a cheapie inverter, this can be as low as 80%, which is not a problem if you’re off camping and hook up an inverter to your car battery for a short period of time to run say, a coffee machine. However, if you want to power a house, 80% is a complete disaster because you’ll lose 20% of your stored energy every time you switch on an appliance. A good inverter will be around 94% efficient.

Before anyone starts writing in to complain about the inadequacies of solar power systems, this happens with the electricity grid on a massive scale. With the electricity grid, not only are there massive losses of energy in the lengthy cables between a city and the generators, but they also transmit the power at really high voltages (in the millions) and then have to convert them to mains power, thus they too have the same efficiency problems as an inverter.

Does your inverter choice affect what batteries you choose?

Some inverters may be small and can be connected up to your car battery (usually a 12v battery), whilst others are quite large and can provide mains electricity to a house, shed etc. Inverters are generally manufactured to connect up to 12v, 24v, or 48 volt battery banks. Therefore, it is the inverter that you choose to use that forces you to make a decision about what voltage and capacity battery bank you will have. If you choose an inverter with a large output capacity you will require a battery with a large output capacity.

Do you have to run an inverter all of the time?

You can also choose to have an inverter on all the time, off, or on standby, and each of these modes will use different amounts of power.

Off – is obviously the most efficient as it uses no power at all.

Standby – is where the inverter is on a little bit just waiting to supply power when it senses a requirement to supply larger amounts of mains quality power. Living with standby is different to being connected to the electricity mains, because when you switch an appliance on, there is a small hesitation before the appliance does what it is meant to do. This hesitation can take a while to get used to. Some complex appliances don’t work very well with standby mode as it doesn’t supply enough power initially for the complex electronics in them to work. The benefit however, is that on standby mode, inverters usually don’t use much power at all.

A good example of this problem is a refrigerator, which has electronics which continually monitor the inside temperature and work out when to switch the compressor motor on or off to cool the contents. These electronics don’t get enough power from an inverter on standby mode to operate at all.

When you look around a household, there are other items which are required to be on all of the time, otherwise they will not function. In my household these appliances include: refrigerator; mains wired smoke alarms; water pump; weather station; and solar hot water pump controller. The common thing with these appliances is that they usually draw little energy in the first place (all up including the inverter itself is about 24Wh). It should also be remembered that any appliance in any situation that is switched on, but on standby, performing no useful function is using energy and this is wasteful.

On – Having an inverter switched on all of the time (without actually doing much), uses up quite a bit of energy which adds up quickly. My inverter, which is quite efficient, uses only 14.4Wh. You may say that that isn’t much power, but over the course of a day (24 hours), it works out to 345.6Wh (or 0.345kWh). When you’re only using 3.0kWh per day then you can see that the system itself uses 11.5% of your total daily requirements.

An inefficient inverter can use as much as 96Wh doing virtually nothing, which works out over a day to 2.3kWh. I couldn’t provide enough stored energy for that particular inverter with my system.

The number that you should look for will say something like “Inverter On – no load – 0.6A at 24v”. Remember that to convert these numbers into watts, you need to multiply the A (amps) by v (Volts). So 0.6A x 24v = 14.4Wh.

Hopefully the relationship with your inverter will be long term, so like any good relationship, it’s worth checking out the small print before purchasing.

Anyway, all this talk of coffee has made me thirsty….

In the next article I’ll describe issues relating to wire, fuses and alternative methods for wiring up a home, shed etc. using extra low voltage.

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I’d appreciate it if commenters kept their comments relevant to this particular article or the series in general. If commenters have ideological issues relating to solar power, I’m happy to discuss them and will do so, however this article is not the forum. Please post these types of comments in the article A Solar Powered Life – Part 6 – The ideological debate. Chances are that your concerns have already been addressed there.

15 Comments

  1. “2.4kWh of energy” is incorrect. Those heaters use 2.4kW of power. If left on for an hour, it would have used 2.4kWh of energy.

    Power is flow of energy. Energy is a quantity. Think of it as the difference between litres/second and litres.

  2. Joshua – Thanks. We’re getting into the gritty stuff now – onto wire, fuses etc for the next article.

    George – Yeah, I forgot to mention that the fan heater would be left on for an hour. Thanks for the pickup. The inverter is continuously rated at 3,000w and a fan heater would consume 2,400w which leaves 600w for other appliances.

    Regards

    Chris

  3. Greetings from North Carolina!

    Great stuff, Chris. Just a note: You mentioned 2 types of inverters, grid tied and standalone (off-grid). Felt I should point out a third type: “Grid interactive” or “hybrid”, which can act as a stand alone or grid connected inverter. I have also done installations with primarily off-grid inverter/chargers using the generator input as a grid connection, and many inverter/chargers have grid inputs, neither designed to supply the grid, but can receive power from the grid for battery charging/equalization. These all have automatic transfer switches, and are useful for folks who live primarily on solar but still wish to power high amp loads occasionally, such as an air conditioner from the grid. I hope I haven’t muddied the waters too much ;-)

    See http://www.outbackpower.com for more info, and I believe Sunnyboy and Xantrex have similar versions.

  4. Greetings GHung,

    Thanks for the feedback. Yeah, hybrid inverters are a good option however they’re usually more expensive and involve quite a lot more complexity than a grid tied or stand alone inverter.

    A lot of people running stand alone systems run generators to either provide a battery charger or power the house when a little bit of extra power is required. I do speak with a guy who runs a welder using a setup not much bigger than my own, so it’s amazing what you can do.

    PS: Really liked your setup for the solar panel trackers. Nice work and much respect! You’ve got me thinking about the location of my own panels.

    Regards

    Chris

  5. A couple of more points, Chris, if I could: The case for inverter/chargers-

    As you know, the battery is one of the most expensive parts of an off-grid system, and the one most likely to be neglected. While different types of lead-acid batteries need to be treated differently, they all need to be overcharged occasionally to “stir” the electrolyte and reduce sulfation. Flooded lead acid batteries (my preference for several reasons), especially, need to be equalized occasionally. I do this about three times a year.

    From a Homepower article:

    Initiate an equalization charge when necessary. Equalization is the deliberate overcharge of a full battery. It stirs up the electrolyte, breaks up light sulfation (which is what eventually wears a battery out), and evens out the chemical state of charge in each cell. Batteries may be equalized using either the charge controller or the inverter (and generator), or both together. Battery voltage should rise above 15.5 V (for a 12 V battery), 31 V (for a 24 V battery), or 62 V (for 48 V battery), and then stay there for three to four hours. Check the water level before equalizing. (For more information on battery maintenance and equalizing, see “Flooded Lead-Acid Battery Maintenance” by Richard Perez in HP98.)

    …and more here:
    https://homepower.com/view/?file=HP98_pg76_Perez&pdf=1

    Most of this info is derived from an extensive study of lead/acid batteries in RE applications done by Sandia National Labs in the US. Unfortunately, their search engine seems to be down.

    So, in order to maximise battery life and capacity, one must have the capability to overcharge all of the cells. Speaking from experience, this is critical. A battery is only as good as its weakest cell. Therefore, since most PV system/battery parings usually don’t have the capability to bring the battery to an overcharge state and keep it there for several hours, some other method of charging the battery must be provided for. An inverter/charger or a seperate high-amp charger (connected to a genny or the grid) meets this requirement. As you said, this means more expense. Not having overcharging capabilities due to cost is truley a case of “penny wise, pound foolish”.

    A group of guys I know got together and constructed their own high-amp (160) petrol powered dc generator using a salvaged airplane APU which they share to equalize their batteries, a sort of co-op. Most folks, like me, opt for inverter/chargers and a generator. I usually equalize on a sunny day so the combined output of the PV and charger get the batteries up to an overvolt condition quickly and keep them there for several hours. Of course, water levels and cell temps are closely monitored during this process.

    Another option is to simply turn off all loads during a sunny period and let the batteries “cook” for a day or two. Depending on the ratio of PV output to battery capacity, this may be an option for some. Those of you with AGM/”maintenance free” battery sets (which I still don’t recommend for larger batteries) need to follow the manufacturer’s recommended procedures.

    Best hopes for more RE. G’day, y’all!

  6. Hi GHung,

    You are 100% spot on about occassionally overcharging the batteries to stir them up a bit. Batteries are really big chemical reactors and sulfation is what eventually kills them (and correct me if I’m wrong), because all that gunk building up eventually shorts out the plates inside the battery, reducing the capacity of the battery.

    The more expensive regulators perform this function on a 90 day basis. So hopefully when they do this there’s plenty of sun in the sky! The manual method that you are suggesting has to be connected directly up to the batteries and you may get a bit of off gassing of hydrogen – so hopefully the area that you are doing this is well ventilated. Cheapie regulators are unlikely to do this function.

    I’m using an Australian designed and built regulator – Plasmatronics PL60.

    I like the use of an aircraft alternator! 160amps! That’s a lot of power.

    You could also use a truck alternator which are a bit easier to get, but don’t generate as much power (80amps to 100amps at 24volts). It still a lot of power though.

    I’d love to see more about the trackers. If the thermoelectric devices don’t work, I’m going to build a tracker for next winter. 6 weeks either side of the winter solstice is the lean time for me here for sunlight. Oh well.

    Regards

    Chris

  7. Thanks for the info, I have now been told my “standalone” solar system running part of my home and having grid power running the rest of my home I was told it is against the law to have 2 separate power sources running at the same time in my house {electrical inspector}I had a sparky come in and run cables under my house to separate GPO and hardwired to my standalone 12v inverter so I could run tv dvd fish tanks frig etc, and have mains power running to dryer washing machine water pump power tools after wiring it to Australian standards they were info from a electricity provide inspector it is illegal to have 2 separate power sources running at the same time, could run a transfer switch but seeing my battery bank was only 1600ah and inverter was 2000w it was not enough to run whole house and would be running out switching over from 1 too the other.It came down to safety I was told 2 separate sources but I was told I can plug extension cords into inverter run them along the floors to power boxes that was legal. I will never under their logic inspectors that is classed as “safety” having cords all over the place!!! lol

  8. Hi Mark,

    Thanks for the comment. Yes, the system is confusing.

    My understanding of Australian law and Australian standards is that you can legally work on extra low voltage DC wiring of up to 120v DC (or up to 50v AC) without having to provide a certificate of electrical safety which is normally provided only by a licensed electrician in Australia and is a legal requirement for voltages higher than the ones I specified.

    Where you may have come unstuck is that you may have inadvertently breached this law / standard by working on 240v AC wiring. I understand the inspectors concerns because they are concerned that your wiring and off grid system may supply 240v AC power to the mains electrical grid when the grid fails for whatever reason. This is serious as it may result in the electrocution and possible injury or death of a linesman working on restoring power to that electrical grid from your off grid solar power system.

    If you work with an electrician, it may be possible to setup a separate off grid circuit within your dwelling, but I’d recommend seeking further advice about this option.

    As a general observation the currents for a 12v off grid system with a battery of 1,600Ah and an inverter of 2,000w continuous are huge and require massive cables. Have you considered rewiring your system for 24v or 48v to reduce the size of the currents?

    Chris

  9. Thanks Chris for you reply, I may have confused you or I’m not understanding you? but my standalone is totally separate from any mains grid coming into my home it does NOT come in contact with mains 240vac at all, my 240vac side of the inverter was wired by a electrician to separate GPO in lounge kitchen under house to run pump and 1 into the dinning for fishtank totally ran all separate 240vac cabling to separate GPO no contact with any mains grid connection at all. but when they the company that I used to rewire and install the 240vac side of my “standalone solar” that they as a company installs “off grid, grid connection, pelton water wheels as a business was told by the power company inspector that having my standalone inverter wired to separate GPO which he was told has no connection nor near any mains grid GPO was illegal, But he the inspector told them I can run a extension cord from my inverter around the inside of my home to a power board and plug my appliances in that way, so why couldn’t they the sparky run the same cord to GPO? Inspector told them you can not have 2 power sources coming into the house even if they are separate and don’t come in contact with each other, yet the way the inspector told them how I can run my inverter with extension cords STILL has me running 2 power sources at the same time which they said in the first place was against the law. confused yes so is the sparky the guy who designs all the systems for this company and left me shaking my head.

  10. Hi Chris ok got it sorted a company I have found down here wires dual systems all the time {been in business for 35 years} and have no problems with getting them passed from inspectors and was told the advise I got first time around was untrue and not correct I must have in my meter box clearly written that this house has dual power sources and I must move my battery bank as close as I can to the meter box and we need to put a cut off switch and link fuse on the outer side of my battery bank box so any emergence services can disconnect all power from house easy enough.Then I can run my 12v cables from battery box to inverter and then wire from inverter to the Australian standard codes for 240vac.Unfortunately this company is flat out installing solar power systems he can not get to me until after xmas but will help me to get it legal until he can do it permanently wire it all up. I can just run extension cords with a plug in RCD from inverter to appliances and I must label the extension cords with “solar power inverter cords” so he seems to know what he is talking about so fingers x.What a learning curve this has been as most electricians/inspectors down here where I live have no real idea about what the laws are on “standalone systems” which is scarey I think.Hoping all info I have been told is right and works out fine for me?

  11. is it relevant to get an inverter in the first place? i am a bit confused i read an article which stated the only reason that its 240v AC in the home is because it needs to be to travel the long distance from the power station and that appliances run of 12vDC current which it coverts from the 240v AC current from the plug socket i.e. the black box on your laptop power lead that is the converter so technically you can run appliance straight from the solar energy. Here is where i read the article.

    https://www.solarvoltaic.com/SolarFact/Why%20you%20do%20not%20use%20Inverters%20with%20Solar%20Power%20systems.pdf

  12. Hi Adrian,

    Great question. You don’t actually need to have an inverter. Some houses have only low voltage DC appliances and only DC wiring. There’s nothing wrong with this approach and in Australia anyone can install wiring of up to 150v DC without having to be a licensed electrician.

    It is the 240v AC requirements of appliances that drive the need for an inverter in an off grid power system. A lot of appliances actually use very low voltage DC to operate and use a transformer to convert the 240v AC into very low voltage DC.

    Chris

  13. I agree, but we all need to realise that adding Solar in their property is an purchase which will raise the future valuation of their property if / when they decide to sell. With the environment the way it is going we are not able to overlook any system that offers free energy at no cost to both the customer and more importantly the environment!

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