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Managing Gorse (Ulex europeaus) – a Permaculture Approach

by Samantha Downing

If you’re a first generation farmer and you manage to find a dirt cheap property to begin your farming endeavours, there’s a good chance there’ll be some kind of weed that you’ll have to deal with. In our case, it was Gorse, Ulex europeaus, a weed of national significance. In permaculture terms, gorse is a pioneer plant. It colonises disturbed ground, and is often seen in erosion gullies, which is the niche it occupies on my property.


Gorse with flower and seed pods

Like most weeds, gorse provides important ecosystem services. A member of the pea family, it fixes nitrogen and its prickly, bushy growth habit provides habitat for birds and animals whilst its dense root structure helps combat erosion. Given that it is a weed of national significance and in order to maintain good relations with our neighbours, managing the gorse was a priority. Most advice we received was to "cut and paint" — cut back gorse bushes and paint with the appropriate herbicide. Chemical management is not an avenue I was willing to pursue due to the potential effects of herbicide on soil and animal life. A permaculture approach requires an analysis of the species to understand its growing needs, potential harvestable uses and its interactions with other parts of the system.

I initially turned to the Weeds Australia website, which provides a comprehensive manual on the biology and management of gorse. Gorse is extremely hardy and fast growing, and young shoots resprout from stumps and sticks that remain in soil. It was clear that any management required a range of strategies, including grazing, mechanical removal, slashing and competition. By far the most useful and easily understood description of gorse was found at this instructable, and if dealing with gorse, I’d recommend reading about the experience of gorse management there. It has been recommended as a nurse plant to establish forests in the UK, and is eventually shaded out as the trees establish.


New gorse sprouting from pruned branches

As a fuel it burns hot, and living gorse burns readily due to the high concentration of oil in its branches. This makes it a fuel for bush fires in southeastern Australia. Burning is not a useful means of management, as both heat from burning and hot weather encourage seedpods to pop and seed to disperse widely. Gorse seed can remain viable for as long as 70 years. It has some use as winter fodder during cold winters in Europe where it is native, and I have used its spiny branches as a fire starter. The Plants for a Future database indicates some uses for gorse such as soaking the seeds in water to use as a pesticide against fleas, and pickling the flower buds in vinegar to make a food reminiscent of capers. The flowers have a fragrance of coconut oil and can be used to make gorse wine.

Gorse occupies an area of about 1000 square metres on our property of one hectare. The gorse forest was at least 15 years old when we turned up and was almost impenetrable as gorse is so prickly. The area it occupied was at the bottom edge of our property, far from the house and bounded by two neighbouring properties. We designated this area a permaculture zone 4/5, with potential development as a woodlot or wildlife zone. The land is fairly flat with some steep banks leading into a storm water gully. This meant that it would be possible to get into most of the area with a tractor to slash the gorse back. Our management plan would begin with slashing, and we intended to promote competition by planting fast-growing and productive local indigenous species. In this way we could utilise the features of gorse that promote forest establishment, including their nitrogen fixing capacity, while providing competition and eventually shading them out once our trees and shrubs are established. We got our local machinery man on the job, with the instruction to try to maintain as much of the wattle and other plants that had self-established amongst the gorse.


Wattle emerging through the gorse


Slashing the gorse forest

We bought a couple of goats to graze some of the areas that we couldn’t get to with the slasher, particularly the steep banks of the gully. The goats have been mildly successful at keeping the gorse down, but they tend to prefer eating other things when available. They have been most useful for eating back the new gorse shoots before planting occurs, but once new plants have gone in, the goats have to be kept out of the area.

The steep banks of the erosion gully have also been cut back by hand. It was decided not to attempt to pull out gorse by the roots here, as they were doing a good job holding the soil to prevent erosion. After cutting back the branches, the banks were planted with prickly wattles, including Acacia verticillata (Prickly Moses), Acacia genistifolia (Spreading wattle) and Acacia paradoxa (Hedge wattle), to provide a similar habitat for native wildlife.


Where gorse has been slashed, a deep mulch of gorse needles remains

I’ve been regularly checking the progress of plants and keeping an eye on the gorse resprouting. Where the gorse has been slashed, the gorse needles are providing a thick layer of mulch for the new plants.

There are some areas where gorse is vigorously resprouting from the root system and others where the plant seems to have been killed. During mid-winter as the ground was so damp, it was not too hard to pull up the entire root of some of the larger plants by hand. In spite of the long tap root, the plants would squelch quite easily up through the mud. I removed about three large plants this way, but began to regret it, as manual removal of the entire root system greatly disturbs the soil.

 


Where the root system was entirely pulled out, the soil is very disturbed

During Spring, Yorkshire fog, a pasture weed, came up everywhere that the gorse had been slashed. Rosemary Morrow describes Yorkshire Fog in the Earth User’s Guide to Permaculture as being caused by increased light and ground disturbance after tree removal, which is indeed what we have done by slashing the gorse.


Yorkshire fog growing where the gorse was slashed

It’s evident that no matter how you approach it, gorse management is a long-term process. Having the large stems and branches slashed to ground level has allowed us to keep any new growth trimmed with the mowing attachment on our small tractor. Following advice for most weed infestations, we are following up the initial work by moving from areas of least to greatest infestation and beginning upstream in the gully and moving down. All the same, it’s frightening to see how quickly some of those branches resprout. I’m interested to try soaking the seed for flea control for some of our animals but need to find further information on how to safely go about this. It’s ironic that you can end up developing the closest relationships with the plants that cause you the most trouble. The crash course in local indigenous species has been most beneficial however and I’m glad to say that these are growing very well indeed.

12 Comments

  1. Interesting article and good information, thanks! Here is NE USA we have a similar problem with the persistence of multiflora rose (aka, that “M.F. Rose”;) I often joke that the only 2 things left after a nuclear holocaust would be roaches and multiflora rose. The plant is good bird habitat, and pfaf says a jam can be made from fruits, but it has vicious thorns so I’d have to be starving to try to harvest them! Conventional management recommendations are similar to those for gorse – cut and paint. Mechanical removal is made more difficult by those nasty thorns and in order to completely get rid of the plant, one must eradicate the root system …which is very disruptive to the soil. I do ecological restoration work and often encounter multiflora rose on stream banks (where nothing else will grow), but because of stability issues w/ already eroded stream banks we generally cut the plant flush with the ground and hope (fingers crossed) that the trees and other vegetation we are planting in the area will grow quickly enough to shade out the rose – it’s a race against time.
    I agree, it really is ironic that you can end up developing the closest relationships with the plants that cause you the most trouble.

  2. Thanks for a very interesting article. I live in the north west of Ireland, and had not heard of a permaculture approach to managing gorse. The predominant strategy here is to burn – hence in Springtime we usually have many wild ‘gorse fires’ – that is if we are lucky enough to have some dry weather!

  3. Thanks for your comments. Interesting to hear which species are considered weeds in different places. We also have what you’d call a multiflora rose, Michelle, but it’s not considered a weed here as far as I know. It’s another good fodder tree for the goats. I’m surprised to hear that gorse is a problem in Ireland, Sean. I thought it was native to your area. A rampant native, perhaps? I’m lucky in that the gorse infested area I’m dealing is relatively small and easy to get to. Enthusiastic planting for competition does seem to be a good strategy, but it’s early days yet and I’m keen to see the long-term results.

  4. There’s some decent irony in the idea of getting rid of gorse to plant prickly wattles hey! Here’s to evolving past vegetative genocide towards a Plant Civil Rights Movement (Peter Andrews and Geoff Lawton can battle it out for the Martin Luther King role)

  5. I grew up with gorse in a valley outside of Wellington called Wainuiomata, Even in Permaculture some weeds should not be used in some locations.

    As far as you can see is gorse in this photo, https://www.flickr.com/photos/23399475@N08/2507284619
    The gorse fires each year around the valley were crazy, This gorse was 2m high and unpassable, it over took every native plant everywhere in that area.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/jenelopy/2507284625/
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/11441117@N00/237489482

  6. hi, when burnt gorse provides a fantastic calcium source, this has to get into the ground without being washed or blown away. mulching an area after burning in small areas would be an option if it was to be planted it wouldnt take long to cover the area affected. a mixture of coppicing then planting with trees to eventually shade it out, and burning then planting with whatever other crops after pulling out the root systems, covering with thick mulch to get the benefit. gorse was used as a rich cattle feed in poor times.

  7. Hi Samantha,

    Here in Ireland as elsewhere Gorse/Furze can be rampant. In my own case I got a digger to remove the problem. However if you neglect to keep up additional after care it’s a waste of time. This time I’ll follow some of your sound advice, barr Goats.. Thanks again for your help!

  8. I’d be interested to talk with you about mechanically pulling out Gorse plants as an initial control method and how successful this would be.
    Please get back to me when you can

  9. Hi Gavin, it’s been a while since I’ve been brought back to this blog post! Gorse management is still a focus. In response to your question, I have been intensively managing gorse on creek banks that are hard to get to with machinery, by first grazing with goats to reduce the size of plants, then hand digging out the remaining plants and pulling out roots using a crowbar. Once a small area is cleared I follow up with planting mostly endemic species. You could use a machine to do the same job – for me it’s a daily workout to pull out 2 or 3 plants – best at this time of year when the soil is damp. I regularly check for new seedlings emerging from the seedbank in the soil, but have only found a couple so far.

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